My Paris-loving friend Anita turned me on to this urban oasis, Canal St-Martin, between the 10th and 11th arrondissements. I’d never been to this part of town, and it was great to explore this neighborhood, which delineates central and eastern Paris.
The area has a unique feel; it’s equal parts industrial, bucolic and artsy. The cobbled quais and high-arched footbridges are quaint, while the floating barges and concrete highrises add a touch of grit. And there’s colorful street art everywhere.
Canal St-Martin was built in the early 19th century to enable river traffic to shortcut the Seine. However, it ended up doing double-duty as an effective defense for rebellious, working-class eastern Paris, whose favorite mid-1800’s past-time was a good insurrection. During revolts, the revolutionary east found it was quite easy to draw up the canal’s six swing bridges to stop the government troops in their tracks.
In the late 19th century, Napoleon III got smart and covered over the lower stretch near the Bastille.
Although some of the eastern neighborhoods are still working class, much of the area has been redeveloped. Some of the ugly 1960’s and 1970’s structures remain, but the neighborhood now draws a young, artistic crowd.
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