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Villa Vauban

This small but important museum is housed in a 19th century urban villa in the middle of a lush, landscaped park. The museum’s peaceful, timeless setting is ideal for showcasing its collection of 17th-19th century European paintings, sculptures and drawings. The current exhibit, “Treasures from the Burkenthal Collection: Brueghel, Cranach, Titian, van Eyck”, features 15th-18th […]

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Fivers

It turns out the best shop in Luxembourg does not sell luxury goods, artisanal chocolates or contemporary art. Rather, it sells Vibram FiveFingers (although I suppose it’s not a stretch to consider these an art form!) – a dizzying, enticing, overwhelming array of FiveFingers in almost every style and color. This is the first FiveFingers-only […]

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La Fête Nationale Luxembourgeoise

Luxembourg’s National Day is the equivalent of America’s July 4th. There’s booze, grilled food, fireworks and bands. The party starts on the eve of the actual holiday around 10 p.m. and goes all night, you need your jacket because the June temps are only in the sixties and there’s always a threat of rain – […]

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Fort Lambert

In Luxembourg, there are ancient structures and eye-catching designs all over. This is one of my favorite combinations: the ruins of Fort Lambert adorned with Jean-Bernard Métais’ white aggregate and turf piece, “The Wave.” Fort Lambert was constructed in the 17th century. Then, it was a two-story pentagonal structure with a corresponding pentagonal courtyard protected […]

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Léa Linster Delicatessen

Could these be what Proust was talking about? I was turned on to these madeleines by my new friend Anita, who said they were amazing. Guess what? She was right. So, so right! I’ve always loved madeleines. I’ve eaten them in France, New York, San Francisco (I know, I know, but there are a lot […]

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Wanterlaf à Leudelange

Today, I figured out where all the fit Luxembourgeois gather! I ran my first Luxembourg race, an 11.5K through the picturesque surrounds of Leudelange (a fifteen-minute drive southwest of Luxembourg City), and the 300 or so runners were lean locals. I didn’t hear any French, only Luxembourgish. The route was much more hilly than I’d […]

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Macaron

I first had a macaron in Paris years ago, and have since enjoyed them every chance I get! Good thing they’re modest in size, although that isn’t helpful when I consume two, four or more at a time… Anyway, they are pretty easy to find over here. Every patisserie makes gourmet versions and groceries carry […]

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Gromperekichelcher

Much to my delight, Gromperekichelcher, or potato pancake, is a favorite Luxembourg winter food. These hearty fried potato-egg-herb concoctions are served with applesauce, although I saw some people eating them with a mayo-like spread.Tweet

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Organ Grinder: Alive and Well in Luxembourg

It’s not every day you awaken to an organ grinder playing a loud, German street organ while walking down the middle of your street. I heard the sound and couldn’t figure out what was going on. Alas, this is what I saw from my balcony. Organ grinders became popular street performers in the early 19th […]

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Fondue

In this part of Europe, fondue is not relegated to kitschy Alpine-themed restaurants or 1970’s sitcoms. Instead, it is a very serious winter tradition to be served with fendant, a Swiss white wine. The earliest recorded fondue recipe was from a 1699 Swiss cookbook. However, the recipe was a bit different – it called for […]

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