Like I was saying, at any turn along Provençal roads you could stumble upon a mountaintop village. We encountered La Roque-sur-Pernes, another tiny 400-resident town carved out of stone clinging to a rocky hillside, along D121. The first inhabitants date back to the Stone Age, as indicated by relics scattered throughout the area. Every vista […]
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Le Beaucet, France
At any turn along twisting Provençal roads, you might encounter ooh-worthy remote villages set high on rocky hilltops, poking above olive groves, vineyards and forests. We came upon exactly that type of village set into the Vaucluse hills. Le Beaucet is a tiny, serene town of 400 residents built into rocky cliffs. We were curious […]
Moulin Coopératif de Mouriès, Mouriès, France
We spent a lot of time in Provence sampling and purchasing wine and olive oil. There’s an abundance of each at most every turn, so the key is doing research beforehand to identify those that sound most alluring. We read favorable things about olive oil cooperative Moulin Coopératif de Mouriès and wanted to check it […]
Domaine Michel et Stéphane Ogier, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
In small wine villages, we spend a fair amount of time looking for wineries down remote roads and showing up at places that are supposed to be open but are not, even though we called ahead of time. Most of the chateaux are staffed by only one or two people (in many cases, the owners) […]
Bulles & Millesimes Wines, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
We ducked into this basement wine shop because it is one of the few that sells some of the region’s best wines – Chateau Rayas, Chateau de Beaucastel and Clos des Papes. Think of it as a boutique that only carries a few high-end brands, only in a crumbling, dusty cave. The owner, Pierre, was […]
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, France
Since we were in the area, we had to swing by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, which is considered one of the finest appellations in the world. It is one of the 16 Crus of the Rhône Valley and one of the first of France’s AOC’s (appellations d’origine controlee). Within the official area of 32 square km, 320 chateaux […]
Chartreuse du Val de Bénédiction, Villeneuve-lés-Avignon, France
But for the religious requirement and the communal living, this lovely monastery tucked away in quiet Villeneuve-lés-Avignon would have been an appealing place to call home. 13th-century village Villeneuve-lés-Avignon is overshadowed by neighboring Avignon, but its second-rate status ensures quiet streets and a slow pace. In the 14th century, Pope Innocent VI donated some land […]
Fort St-André, Villeneuve-lés-Avignon, France
This sprawling 14th-century fort sits high on a mountaintop across the river from Avignon. I was curious to check it out since its grandness is visible from many surrounding points. Up close, it’s just as massive and solid as it appears from afar. In the 13th century, Fort St-André was built on Mount Andaon on […]
Les Antiques, St-Rémy de Provence
If you don’t believe that chic St-Rémy de Provence wasn’t always filled with boutiques and cafés, drive a few minutes out of the city center and look by the side of the road. There, you’ll see two ancient structures sitting in the middle of a field that comprise the site known as Les Antiques. The […]
Joël Durand, St-Rémy de Provence, France
Locavore meets ganache here, where one of France’s best chocolatiers uses pristine local foods like Baux Valley black olives and almonds and Provençal herbs and plants like lavender, thyme, rosemary and violet in easy-to-identify treats. The tiny shop is filled with local honey, preserves, biscuits and other goodies. This makes a great mid-day break while […]
