Mosel Valley

Typical steep Mosel hills

If you want excellent Riesling, head to the oldest and largest source, the Mosel Valley. The Mosel Valley (Moselle in French and Mosel in German) is the world’s largest contiguous Riesling-growing region. Thanks to the cool, rainy climate, steep hills that rise straight up from the Mosel River’s banks and mineral-rich soil, the Mosel’s vineyards produce some amazing vintages. It also helps that the hills’ slopes are sheltered from the biting north winds and the soil stores the sun’s heat. The best vineyards are the south-facing ones, as they benefit from the light reflections off the river.

Workers navigate the steep hillsides via a metal track

For over 2,000 years, wine has been the center of life in the Mosel. When the Romans arrived, they were forced to establish their own vineyards after their wine supply via the Alps was cut off due to conflicts with the Germans.

Stairs are a common sight in the vineyards

Until the 19th century, most of the vineyards were owned by the church. Now most of them are owned by private successors of the church estates.

The Mosel River is a long tributary of the Rhine. It winds over 500 kilometers and through three countries, from the Vosges mountains in France to the city of Koblenz in Germany. Ancient castles, palaces, fortresses, monasteries and churches pepper the region. Each town is as picturesque as the next with half-timbered houses and vintners’ villages.

Charming houses abound

There are four main wine routes: the southernmost Saar and Ruwer, famous for Riesling grown on grey slate, the Obermosel where dry grapes are grown on limestone (Elbling, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder), the Mittelmosel, where Riesling and Müller Thurgau grow on grey slate and, most downriver, Terrassenmosel, which grows Rieslings in harder, quartzitic soil. All routes follow the winding river and crisscross it at numerous points.

Vines are everywhere!

Being over here, I’ve developed an appreciation for Riesling. From a practical point of view, it’s a versatile wine that is a safe bet off the wine list when the inventory is from unfamiliar regions and the waiter does not speak English! Dry (trocken) Riesling goes as well by itself as it does with food. It’s generally crisp and complex and the medium-dry (halbtrocken) vintages get a little fruity. Riesling is a crowd-pleaser and a solid everyday wine. The sweeter Rieslings make great desert wines.

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