This sprawling 14th-century fort sits high on a mountaintop across the river from Avignon. I was curious to check it out since its grandness is visible from many surrounding points. Up close, it’s just as massive and solid as it appears from afar. In the 13th century, Fort St-André was built on Mount Andaon on […]
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Site Archéologique de Glanum
I had no idea how amazing the ruins of the ancient city Glanum would be. I almost skipped it, figuring I’ve had my fill of destroyed buildings, but I’m glad I didn’t since this is one of the most well-preserved and impressively designed ancient city I’ve seen (this may not be saying much since most […]
Les Antiques, St-Rémy de Provence
If you don’t believe that chic St-Rémy de Provence wasn’t always filled with boutiques and cafés, drive a few minutes out of the city center and look by the side of the road. There, you’ll see two ancient structures sitting in the middle of a field that comprise the site known as Les Antiques. The […]
Joël Durand, St-Rémy de Provence, France
Locavore meets ganache here, where one of France’s best chocolatiers uses pristine local foods like Baux Valley black olives and almonds and Provençal herbs and plants like lavender, thyme, rosemary and violet in easy-to-identify treats. The tiny shop is filled with local honey, preserves, biscuits and other goodies. This makes a great mid-day break while […]
Collégiale Saint Martin, St-Rémy de Provence, France
Collégiale Saint Martin’s hulking Neoclassical mass is stuffed into tiny St-Rémy’s streets. The structure, which stands on the site of a medieval church, only dates from 1821, having been constructed after the original collapsed in 1818. The 14th-century Gothic bell tower and chapel are from the original building. I’ve seen a lot of organs, and […]
St-Rémy de Provence, France
My husband and I took a short 13 km drive from Avignon to St-Rémy de Provence, a medieval town with twisting narrow streets surrounded by (you guessed it) gates and ramparts. A wide tree-lined boulevard encircles the outer perimeter. St-Rémy reminded me of an older, weathered, less-wealthy Carmel. Endless charming blocks are filled with boutiques […]
Igreja de São Francisco, Porto
Now, this is something. This Gothic church offers the most amazing burst of baroque in Porto. The church was built in the 14th century. If you couldn’t guess, the interior was completely Rococo’d in the 18th century when the aisles, apse chapels, pillars – really, everything – was decorated with gilt woodwork. Bye-bye medieval architecture; […]
Five Oceanos, Porto
We asked the concierge for a good seafood restaurant recommendation and he pointed us toward the beach. We weren’t so keen on taking a 20-minute cab ride, but he assured us that Five Oceanos was his neighborhood spot and we couldn’t go wrong. The restaurant did not disappoint. There’s a huge bin of fresh fish […]
Café Majestic, Porto
We spotted this café while strolling down busy Santa Catarina and thought it looked like a promising lunch spot. The fanciful marble façade with columns and statues set it off from the rest of the buildings and drew us in. Stepping inside was like visiting the Belle Époque. The interior was full of beveled Flemish […]
Taylor’s Port
We climbed Gaia’s steep hill to visit one of the only wineries open on Sunday, Taylor’s. Founded in the 17th century, Taylor’s was one of the first wineries in Portugal. It is the last of the independent British houses, still family-owned and operated. Taylor’s was one of the first producers to acquire their own vineyards […]
