I had to have a drink at this 18th-century brasserie where Aix’s two most famous sons, Cézanne and Zola, hung out. Other famous visitors included Picasso, Edith Piaf, Churchill, Sartre and Cocteau. This 17th-century building was originally a chess club and a gathering spot for Royalists during the French Revolution. In 1840, it was purchased […]
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Les Carriéres de Bibemus, Aix-en-Provence
When Cézanne got away from it all, he didn’t mess around. This remote pine-forested site high on a sandstone plateau was where he escaped city life. Before Cézanne discovered it, the site was used by the city of Aix as a quarry. The tall, top-heavy red rocks were chiseled by hand, chipped from the bottom. […]
Aix’s Fountains
Since “Aix” is derived from the Latin word “aquae”, it’s no surprise that fountains decorate the cityscape. 18th-century Fontaine d’Eau Chaude (hot water) or La Fountaine Moussue (moss) sits in the middle of the action on Cours Mirabeau and spouts 90-degree F water. The spring from which it draws has been enjoyed for its healing […]
Aix-en-Provence, France
Sunny Aix has it all: an art- and literature-filled history, Baroque architecture at every turn and a laid-back vibe. It is small and walkable, with tree-lined boulevards and café-filled squares. Aix was a Celtic-Ligurian capital in the 3rd century B.C., until the Romans settled in, lured by thermal springs. During the Middle Ages, it was […]
Café de la Nuit, Arles, France
You might recognize this as Van Gogh’s “Café Terrace at Night”, which was the first painting into which he incorporated a starry background. Van Gogh painted it in 1888 while standing, I imagine, where I stood to take the photo. The building is now painted bright yellow to recreate Van Gogh’s effect. I’m sure back […]
Espace Van Gogh, Arles, France
This looks like a nice place for a breakdown, though I question its efficacy since Van Gogh checked in not once, but twice. The first time was after his infamous ear/Gauguin incident, then again after he had a full-on meltdown. Van Gogh produced a painting of the hospital’s interior courtyard, named, aptly, “Garden of the […]
Théâtre Antique, Arles, France
Back in 40 B.C., this 12,000-seat theatre was one of the first phases of Arles’ urbanization. Then, it was one of the earliest free-standing theaters using newfangled radiating vaulted chambers and concentric galleries. The high rear wall was adorned with statues and columns, and the exterior wall had three levels of arcades. Now, only the […]
Les Arènes, Arles, France
Arles has no shortage of Roman ruins, and the main attraction is the elliptical amphitheatre. Standing inside, taking it all in, I thought it was enormous, but it turns out it was only the 20th largest in the Roman world. Here, beginning in 70 A.D., gladiators, criminals and slaves encountered their end before 20,000 spectators. […]
Les Baux-de-Provence, France
This fortified hilltop village is aptly named for its location; in Provençal, “bauç” is a rocky spur and Les Baux-de-Provence indeed sits on a limestone spur. The dramatic rocks caught my attention, so we parked the car on the main road and walked up the hill through olive groves and vineyards to get a better […]
Venasque, France
Welcome to the big town of Venasque! At 1,100 residents, this is the largest of the mountaintop villages we encountered in this corner of Vaucluse. While I was researching Venasque, I learned that it is one of the 126 Most Beautiful Villages in France. I’m not sure how special that designation is, but I can […]
