Within this little ramshackle stand in the morning market, colorful Théresa serves up socca, a local specialty. Socca is a griddle-fried pancake from chickpea flour and olive oil. It’s known as farinata across the border in Liguria, where Genoese add rosemary and onion to it. Théresa also serves sandwiches, pizzas and pastries, but most people […]
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Parc du Château
It’s hard to miss Parc du Château, the 92-meter high rock. This was Nice’s first settled spot. The extravagant castle Colline du Château once adorned the top, but was destroyed by Louis XIV in the 18th century. Other medieval ruins are visible, such as a pedestrian gate fitted into the former castle’s wall and ruins […]
Nice Market
There’s no better way to get a feel for a city than through its markets. Vieux Nice has a thriving at cours Saleya with flowers, produce, antiques and artwork. Make sure to arrive before 1 p.m., though, when the vendors begin packing up and the area restaurants begin rolling out their awnings. Tuesday through Sunday […]
La bibliothèque Louis Nucéra
This bust and metallic cube, La Tête au Carré, is actually the Nice library. It was created by Sacha Sozno, a local artist, who wished to make a statement about obliterating boundaries and integrating art into the urban landscape. It stands 30 meters high. La bibliothèque Louis Nucéra, library, Nice, Sozno, France
La Taca D’Oli
This is a popular Niçoise/French/Italian restaurant featuring local, fresh food. It’s tiny and tucked into a narrow, busy street, so it pays to arrive early. The restaurant offers two menus: two courses for €19 and three courses for €24. We started off with house salads, which were enormous. There was nothing special about them, but […]
Always a Sunny Day in Nice
When you think of the Côte d’Azur, you probably envision golden sunlight, miles of beaches, turquoise water and topless sunbathers. And you’d be right, for the French Riviera is the original resort area. The Côte d’Azur, which gets 300 sunny days a year, became popular when 18th century English aristocracy began spending winters there. Word […]
Monte Carlo Casino
If you’re going to get fu**ed, you might as well bend over here in Monte Carlo’s marble and gold Belle Époque casino. This makes the highest-end Vegas casinos look like cheap roadside squalor. This is Europe’s oldest casino. It was designed by Charles Garnier, the architect of the Paris Opera House, and constructed in 1865. […]
Le Palais des Princes de Monaco
This palace was originally constructed in the 12th century as a fortress. The Republic of Genoa had just acquired Monaco’s accessible harbor, and they needed to protect the coastline. Why not build a fortress atop a hill? The Genoese were weathly merchants – so rich, in fact, that they banked the other European nation states. […]
Cathédrale de Monaco
The Romanesque-Byzantine Cathédrale de Monaco was built in 1875 with white stones from La Turbie. Previously, a 13th century church dedicated to Saint Nicolas stood on the site. The 16th century altar was designed by Niçois painter Louis Bréa. Prince Rainier III and Grace Kelly were married here. Their tombs, along with other former Monaco […]
Monaco
In the interest of perspective, let’s get this out of the way: Monaco makes manicured East Hampton and over-the-top Beverly Hills look like the back woods of Appalachia. Monaco is pristine and exclusive and, well, pretty much unachievable for regular folk. Here, there’s no mix of high and low. Or, rather, billionaire and non-billionaire. At […]
