Päffgen (est. 1883) is the smallest brewery in Cologne and produces an exceptionally good Kölsch. Its product is slightly hoppier than the other traditional Hausbrauereis, and the bottomless service is just as efficient. We accumulated ten hash marks in under an hour, before peeling ourselves away to visit the next beer hall on our list. […]
Museum Ludwig
Museum Ludwig satisfactorily provides all the modern art –isms under one roof: realism, surrealism, nouveau réalisme, abstract expressionism. The Ludwig has the third largest Picasso collection in the world, after Paris and Barcelona, and an impressive collection of American artists. You’ll see some of the more famous Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Jasper Johns pieces […]
Kölsch
One of my favorite things about Cologne is Kölsch, golden ale served in long, tall 0.2 liter glasses. Kölsch is Cologne’s proprietary beer, strictly defined by the Kölsch Konvention, an agreement between the members of the Cologne Brewery Association. Similar to Champagne, use of the term Kölsch is prohibited outside Cologne. The original Kölsch brewer […]
Kunsthaus Art Gallery
I don’t know if the Kunsthaus places so many sculptures outside its museum because it knows charging 30 CHF (much more than vastly superior museums like the Met, Louvre, National Gallery, etc.) is ridiculous or if they genuinely want to provide accessible art. Regardless, I grudgingly loved this Rodin. Inside, the permanent collection includes Alberto […]
Museum Strauhof
This small museum is housed in an 18th century residence and has four literary exhibitions every year. The current exhibit is – no surprise – “The Mysteries of Charles Dickens.” Of course, I had to see it. The exhibit is by far the weakest among the recent ones I’ve seen, but it contains a lot […]
Lindenhof
This fortification, which forms the oldest part of Zürich, is the site of a Roman castle and trading site. In 1747, a 2nd century Roman tombstone was discovered here that bore the Zürich’s ancient Roman name, Turīcum. The castle withstood the tumultuous 5th and 6th centuries, but was a derelict by the 9th century. Louis […]
Lactose, Lactose, Lactose
When visiting Switzerland, you have to try really hard to avoid fondue. There are special fondue restaurants and most local eateries we saw offered this multi-thousand-calorie dish. Much as pasta tastes different in Italy, fondue tastes different here. For one, it’s very smooth. Less gloppy, you could say. The restaurant in which we ate used […]
Fraumünster
The Fraumünster has the most beautiful stained glass windows in Zürich, courtesy of Marc Chagall and Augusto Giacometti (cousin of Alberto). The Fraumünster’s history goes all the way back to 853, when King Ludwig gave his daughter Hildegard the convent and tower-less basilica which stood on this site. Like all new real estate owners, the […]
Wanterlaf à Leudelange
Today, I figured out where all the fit Luxembourgeois gather! I ran my first Luxembourg race, an 11.5K through the picturesque surrounds of Leudelange (a fifteen-minute drive southwest of Luxembourg City), and the 300 or so runners were lean locals. I didn’t hear any French, only Luxembourgish. The route was much more hilly than I’d […]
Oepfelchammer
This 200-year old building with worn timbers and lopsided angles is where Gottfried Keller, Zurich’s most famous poet, drank. Walking into the bar on the second floor (most of the building houses the restaurant) is like ducking into a tight cave. If you go by yourself, you don’t need reading materials since carvings cover every […]
